Back from Tobago: Top 5 off the beaten path highlights

1. Bio-luminescent Kayaking Safari

Under the darkness of a starry night sky, I paddled my kayak into the warm, tranquil waters of the mangrove lagoon of Bon Accord. Paddling the perimeter and into mangrove coves, awakens a magical shimmer of glittering, blue light. Whether swimming or kayaking, my every movement was illuminated by the twinkling of the bioluminescent plankton.

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2. Tonci Chocolate

Carlina makes chocolate to relive childhood. Just like her mother did, she forages for cocoa pods among the lush island vegetation, roasts the beans in a coal pot and shells them by hand with her family. She welcomes visitors to her home and garden to take part. The end result is one of the richest, most complex-tasting chocolates I have ever sampled. And completely unknown: the tiny batches of ‘Tonci’ bars are only sold in two places on the island.

3. Sunday School

Islanders come to Bucoo town square to mingle and people watch on a Sunday evening (there is no religious connection). I joined them in the town’s buzzing hub, with a rum in hand, and soaked up the vibe to the sound of the live steel pan band.

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4. Street Food

While there are restaurants for finer-dining on the island, The Seahorse Inn being a choice example, Tobago’s towns sizzle and steam with the sounds and mouthwatering aromas of its flavorful street food. Tobagan ‘Doubles’ are a must: fluffy and pillowy fried bread stuffed with curried chickpeas, topped with a medley of zesty sauces. ‘Souse’, succulent pork or chicken marinated in a tangy blend of juices and spices, explodes with flavour. The herb-infused sauce of freshly-caught crab soaks up perfectly into the accompanying soft, doughy dumplings in another local delicacy. Each dish in this culinary treasure trove is a testament to Tobago’s rich culinary heritage.

5. Healing with Horses

This non-profit outfit not only cares for rescued horses but provides equine therapy to children with special needs. Visitors can see the work firsthand, and hack out themselves, mounting on foam saddles and with bitless bridles. Riders pass through Buccoo’s coastal woodland before emerging on the sand, kicking up spray along the lapping shoreline.