Back from Kenya: a day in the life in rhino territory

Propellors whirling, our plane started to descend, the vast flat bush coming slowly closer. I could start to make out the figures of giraffes, with their heads poking through the trees. This was a journey into a different world, a world filled with lions, cheetahs and leopards. We had arrived at Borana Conservancy, a private rhino conservancy located in the foothills of Mount Kenya.

Jimmy, our guide, welcomed us with refreshments and we hopped in our vehicle. Along dirt tracks and past euphorbia trees, we drove through the reserve. All around us were magnificent herds of elephants, families of black and white rhinos and impalas bounding across the track. We hadn’t even unpacked our bags, and we had managed to see four of the Big Five.

We received a warm welcome at Borana Lodge and were introduced to the lovely staff. Borana Lodge is the definition of sustainable luxury: rooms that look out onto elephants drinking at waterholes, a fantastic spa and exquisite dining led by the head chef Bernard, who’s worked there for over 30 years. The lodge is comprised of beautiful wooden structures with intricate woven roofs. It’s all the luxury you could want but with an unwavering commitment to sustainability and longevity.

It’s an eco-lodge designed to be in harmony with the wilderness around. Electricity is entirely generated by their solar farm and the produce is locally sourced. The focus here is heavily on community-driven conservation. Various initiatives ensure the long-term sustainability of the region, be it local employment, its education centre or its mobile health clinic. A stay at Borana is not just about seeing amazing wildlife, it’s about conservation and the opportunity to contribute to the community.

No day here is the same. Fresh coffee is brought to your door to jump start your early morning game drives. A feint orange line begins to creep along the horizon as the sun begins to rise. The silence of dawn is broken only by bird song. You can effortlessly spot beautiful wildlife from your private vehicle with a personal guide. Borana is home to the Big 5 and countless endangered species, such as Grévy’s zebras and reticulated giraffes. Borana is primarily a rhino conservancy and is even home to more black rhino than white rhino. An incredible diversity of game can be seen from the safety and comfort of your vintage Land Rover.

The special thing about Borana is that exploring the bush by car only scratches the surface of what you can do. This is a place for the adventurous traveller who wants more, who wants to experience the real Kenyan bush.

You can leave behind the noise of the car and immerse yourself in the bush on horseback. Their stables are home to over thirty horses suitable for novices or experts. Embarking on a riding safari allows you to be amidst herds of giraffe and zebra, experiencing all the wildlife up close. There’s no better way to see the bush than to be truly part of it, to be one with the wildlife. Those looking for an experience they are not likely to forget can even spend the night fly camping in the bush with their horses. Take a glimpse into African days of old, riding through the bush on horseback and spending the night under the stars listening to the roar of lions.

Being in the bush, it’s hard not to fall in love with the wildlife, especially with the abundance of rhinos. Those who want to learn more about rhino conservation can join the rangers rhino tracking. At Borana there hasn’t been a poaching incident since 2014 due to their dedicated team of over 130 rangers. The rhinos are monitored throughout the day and night. Put your boots on and join the rangers in the morning as they set out to track and monitor the rhinos. Once a rhino has been identified by their unique ear marking, their location is reported and logged by HQ.

The action of the day comes to a close as you enjoy a sundowner in the bush. There’s something special about sipping your fresh G&T looking out on the plains that surround you, filled with the smell of eucalyptus and the trumpeting of elephants. You can enjoy your sundowner on Pride Rock, the very rock that Disney artists drew for the Lion King.

Hues of purple and pink dance across the horizon as Mount Kenya slowly disappears into the darkness. Back at the lodge the staff have set up one of Borana’s famous bush dinners: an amazing dining experience in the hide, overlooking animals drinking from the waterhole. It’s a truly spectacular evening under the stars, enjoying a barbecue and exceptional cocktails made by bartenders Jack and Sam. Everyone dines together, fostering a sense of community, swapping adventure-filled stories from the day and stories from home.

Once the feasting had concluded, we were treated to a performance by local Masai dancers. With energetic leaps and rhythmic head bobbing that shook their beaded necklaces, they filled the air with life. Their dance was accompanied by song that echoed all around. Many of the staff hailed from the same neighbouring villages, and it wasn’t long before they all joined in, their laughter and smiles infectious and tireless.

The celebrations come to a close, signalling the end of a beautiful day at Borana. Tomorrow the sun will rise again over the bush and a new day of adventure will begin.

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