El Salvador – an itinerary around the last undiscovered Central American country

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1. San Salvador

Start your trip in the capital. Don’t miss these highlights:

Centro Historico:

The capital’s centro historico, with its grand architecture juxtaposed next to glittering glass structures, is a must. The newly-built central library – a space age, Chinese-funded monument to modernity – gleams proudly beside the historic National Palace.

Soak up the positivity in the air among the friends and family out for a city stroll, and take time to people watch from a cafe table in the central plaza. The city is civilised, safe and easy going. It’s low-rise and with a good number of open green spaces – an easy and welcoming first stop on an El Salvador itinerary.

Unmissable Bar in San Salvador:

La Dalia Bar is, for us, one of the top 10 bars in the world. You can’t create places like this, only time does that. It oozes character. Locals hang out in the billiard hall, and regulars put the world to rights over beers and cocktails in the bar. It’s civilised in a wonderfully rough-around-the-edges way which now attracts wealthy Salvadoreans, the occasional Western tourist (given only a few visit still) and plentiful locals. In an amazing location with views over the square below, it’s a perfect people watching spot.

‘Must-try’ streetfood in San Salvador:

El Mercadito Merliot market is an excellent authentic lunch spot. The market, which is bustling but not overwhelming, sells everything from fruits and meats to daily goods. Locals stop here to eat at the stalls selling freshly prepared meals. It’s clean and inexpensive, and joining them, you feel like a local.

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Best restaurant in San Salvador:

Some of the best dining is in fact to be found in the restaurants of the Intercontinental Hotel. However, for an independent vibe and a heritage Germanic feel, visit the Jaegerhaus Casa del Cazador. This restaurant brims with character, adventure and history dating to the late 1800s, with family ownership having passed down through the generations.

Where to stay in San Salvador:

While there are several options, the two we’d recommend are:

Cardedeu Hotel

The key draw is the location – right on the main square, with fabulous plaza views from your window.

The Intercontinental

Although an international chain, this hotel is worth a mention. The service is good, as are its three restaurants. It’s reasonably well-located at 25 minute walk from the centre.

2. La Boquerón National Park & San Salvador Volcano

From your base in San Salvador, take a 50-minute drive to Boquerón National Park. Rising a little to a fresher climate, this forested national park is home to the currently dormant, perfectly conical San Salvador Volcano. Hike 30 minutes to the crater, which you view from the mirador and glass walkway at the top. The crater used to contain a lake, but it was engulfed by the last eruption in 1917. The steep crater walls now plummet into dense undergrowth. A walkway will soon (per Aug 2025) be constructed around the rim of the volcano.

Go early or steer clear of weekends, when a lot of locals go, to avoid the crowds.

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3. La Ruta de las Flores

With a private driver and guide, follow the road up into the Western Hills to hop between colourful, cobblestone villages. These colonial gems – 7 in total – each have their own character. Ataco is arguably the prettiest, with the most street art and murals to spot, and numerous cafes to choose from.

Where to stay along the Ruta de las Flores

Base yourself in Ataco and explore the surrounding villages from there. Casa Degraciela is a charming, characterful option for accommodation, located just off the main plaza.

What to do on the Ruta de las Flores

Pottering and people watching are top of the agenda for these pretty, colourful villages.

Watch artisans at work as they go about their daily activities in the traditional way. Peek into the ateliers of basket weavers, cigar rollers, and cheese makers, all practising their crafts as they have done for generations.

Join a mother and daughter in their family restaurant to have a go at pupusa making. This thick corn flatbread stuffed with cheese, beans and more is a Salvadoran staple.

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Waterfalls on the Ruta de las Flores

Just an amble away from the villages, on pathways through tropical forest, spectacular waterfalls tumble into crisp, deep pools. The most spectacular are accessed from the more bohemian village of Juayúa. The easiest to reach, and arguably the most impressive, is Chorros de la Caldera, just a 20-minute walk from the village.

For the more intrepid, trek the five hours along the 7 Waterfall Hike from Juayúa, through coffee hills and jungles of tropical fruit trees, with the three volcanoes as your backdrop. Take a dip in the cascades’ plunge pools, and rappel down the facade of the last waterfall, El Bebedero.

4. Lake Coatepeque and Santa Ana Volcano Hike

Volcano Hike

The hike up Santa Ana volcano – the highest in El Salvador – is an absolute highlight. Start along the orchid path, spotting hummingbirds and toucans alongside an array of flowers. Climb on through the cloud forest to reach the four craters. As the clouds disperse, the views are spectacular: Izalco and Cerro Verde volcanoes rise in the distance, and blues of Lake Coatepeque sparkle below.

Edge your way to the rim of the crater – it’s not fenced off – to peer down into the milky waters of the crater lake. Sulphurous vapours rise from its thermal depths.

The ascent, which is about two hours, will work up a sweat but is perfectly do-able for most, young and old.

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Where to stay

Stay at Casa 1800 Hotel, Cerro Verde. You will have some of the best views in all of El Salvador from your window, with Izalco and Cerro Verde volcanoes rising from the jungle before you. The hotel was built to provide an unparalleled viewpoint for the eruptions of Cerro Verde. These have now stopped, but the views remain spectacular.

Stay for 2-3 nights to climb Santa Ana and to explore Coatepeque crater lake.

5. Suchitoto

This is the jewel in the crown of El Salvador’s colonial towns. It sits on the banks of the huge Lake Suchitlan, surrounded by dense jungle. Suchitoto is easily worth a stay of three nights to enjoy the town and learn about the turbulent history of El Salvador in the surrounding areas.

Where to stay

Our favourite place to stay here is the delightful and exuberantly characterful Los Almendros de San Lorenzo. This French / El Salvadoran-run boutique hotel features quirky artworks and each room exudes personality.

What to do

Explore the cobbled lanes of colonial Suchitoto with a private guide, visiting the market and local corn mill. Take part in an indigo workshop, a tradition largely unchanged since Mayan times. As the sun sets, watch the birdlife on the banks of Lake Suchitlan.

Ride to Guazapa on horseback, accompanied by an ex-guerilla guide who will show you the former combat sites, campsites and trenches of the civil war.

For those with a strong interest in archeology, visit the nearby Joya de Cerén – a site preserved by a volcanic eruption in 7AD. This is one of the only sites to showcase the everyday life of townsfolk, with quirky artefacts including half-eaten pieces of food abandoned in haste, and an early version of a sauna.

Don’t miss Los Tercios waterfall. With rock formations similar to the Giant’s Causeway, these impressive falls cascade over a rockface of hexagonal volcanic columns.

6. Bahia de Jiquilisco

End your trip on the Eastern coast of El Salvador, helping out at the ICAPO turtle protection project, kayaking through extensive mangroves, and visiting a spider monkey protection programme. Make the most of being in the surf capital of Central America with a surfing lesson at the attractive Playa El Cuco, before returning home.

See related blogs:

• Costa Rica Beyond the Obvious: An Insider’s Guide to a Smarter Itinerary

To experience El Salvador for yourself, get in touch with us at LiNGER. We’ll tailor the trip to your style of travel and plan every detail around what matters to you.