Outside the Golden Triangle – a North Indian itinerary

North India off-the-beaten-path itinerary

This Northern circuit takes you to sacred rivers, safari lodges and historic hill stations, all away from the typical tourist route. It’s a great trip for travellers who have already been to India and want to explore deeper, across a variety of experiences. The route in a nutshell:

1. Rishikesh

Fly 45 min from Delhi to Dehradun Airport. In Rishikesh, stroll through the atmospheric markets, white water raft down the River Ganges and pass through remote mountain villages on the Kunjapuri Temple Trek.

2. Jabalpur & Kanha Safari

Fly to Jabalpur, the gateway city to Kanha National Park for its white marble gorge, and onto the tiger park for an open top tiger safari and tribal village walks.

3. Agra alternative experience

Take an overnight train to Agra to see a different side to the Taj Mahal and overnight at a charming homestay.

4. Outside Agra

Go well off the beaten path to see local life in historic Etawah; explore the abandoned mansions of Holipura; and bike along the peaceful, traffic-free cycle ‘highway’. Take a Chambal safari along the Yumuna River, and watch the sun set over the riverside Bateshwar temples.

5. Palampur

Ascend to tea country to a back drop of snow capped mountains in this picturesque hiking and biking area.

6. Shimla

Soak up the heritage of this historical summer hill station retreat of the British Raj and take a narrow gauge train ride into panoramic mountain scenery.

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1. Rishikesh

Witness the atmospheric Ganga Aarti rituals, white water raft along the Ganges River and discover remote mountain communities on a temple trek.

What’s Rishikesh like?

Rishikesh is one of the sacred holy cities on the Ganges. It’s known for daily Ganga Aarti rituals, yoga and meditation. Adventure also features heavily, with river rafting – which is what put Rishikesh on the map, alongside activities like bungee jumping, ziplining, and hiking. The town has a bohemian vibe. It’s frenetic, like most Indian towns, but far from the assault of Varanasi. At an altitude of 1,200 metres above sea level, temperatures are pleasant.

What to do in Rishikesh?

Ganga Aarti

Witness the Ganga Aarti rituals of chanting and fire along the banks of the River Ganges.

River Rafting

Choose your level of adventure and expertise, with rapids from class 2 to 5. Board your raft and navigate the River Ganges down to Shivpuri, where you’ll be transferred back by road.

Rajaji National Park

24km from Rishikesh lies Rajaji National Park, home to herds of elephants, numerous deer, wild boar, antelopes, monitor lizards and bird species including the Crested Kingfisher and Crimson Sunbird. Arrive early or at sunset for a three-hour safari in an open jeep across rugged terrain.

Kunjapuri Temple Trek

Walk through remote mountain villages of houses made of stone and wood on this temple trek, observing local life. It’s a day trek in its entirety, although you can choose to hike shorter sections. Climb the steep steps up to Kunjapuri Temple at sunrise or sunset, where a magnificent view awaits.

Markets

Wander the bustling markets. Stop for a freshly made gulab jamum dessert from a specialist shop, slurp a massala chai from a street vendor, and sidestep the cows.

Ashrams

Wander between ashrams. Each has a very distinct character. Sample the delicacies served from their food stalls.

Wellness retreats

Stay at an ayurvedic retreat. Consult with a doctor before your stay, who will propose sessions of natural healing.

Cross the hanging bridges

Pedestrian rope bridges cross the River Ganges in Rishikesh. Traverse at sunset for a perch over the Ganga Aarti rituals along the river banks.

Where to stay in Rishikesh:

Ananda by the Himalaya

For wellness, nutrition and holistic traditional programmes, this is the top place to stay. Consult with one of the doctors prior to your arrival, who will prescribe natural ayurvedic healing treatments during your stay.

Still owned by a royal family, the setting is beautiful with fantastic views.

Taj Anand Kashi

This is a great small hotel in a peaceful setting overlooking the Ganges. Stay in an immaculate, spacious room or a luxurious tented lodge. After high tea, follow a footpath down to a private river beach to witness the daily Aarti rituals.

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2. Jabalpur and Kanha Safari

British influences remain in this largely industrial, military town. The most impressive sight here is the Marble Rock gorge. See this by boat, then continue by road to Kanha Tiger Park for a safari lodge experience.

What to see in Jabalpur?

Marble gorge

The River Narmada cuts through the steep sides of a a gorge of white marble. Take a boat through Bhedaghat gorge to admire the walls of white stone reflected on the dark waters.

Dhuandhar Falls

The Narmada flows to the powerful Dhuandhar Falls, a wide curtain of water cascading 30m into a fine mist. A worthwhile continuation by road from the gorge.

Kanha National Park Tiger Safari

Kanha is one of the best places for spotting tigers in India. Beyond these elusive big cats, Kanha’s dense jungle and wide grassy meadows are home to swamp deer, wild dogs and remus monkeys.

What to do in Kanha National Park

Tiger safari

A designated tiger reserve, look out for these elegant creatures on a morning or evening jeep safari. Spot wildlife along the banks of the river Banjar, which borders the park.

Tribal Village Walk

With a private guide from the village itself, take a walk through the rural, tribal village of Kutwahi, on the outskirts of the park. Far from being touristy and voyeuristic, the locals go about their daily life as normal as you pass through. See the huts plastered with cow dung, and decorated with limestone. Pumpkin vines trail from vegetable patches; rice paddies and sugar cane surround the village. Local women go about their chores drawing water from the well and herding goats; men work in the fields, and seniors chew tobacco by the village shop.

This walk is a stone’s throw away if you’re staying at Flame of the Forest Safari Lodge or Outpost 12 (see ‘Where to Stay’ below).

Where to stay in Kanha National Park

Outpost 12

One of the best high end options in Kanha, Outpost opened opened in Feb 2025. Its owner spent time in luxury lodges in Africa, which is reflected in the slick yet natural design of Outpost 12. Rooms face the river for maximum sightings, and there is a star bed you can spend the night on.

Flame of the Forest

Owned by an Anglo-Indian couple, this is a lovely boutique lodge with a lot of rustic personality. Nature is intrinsic to the design: each of the cottages has a living roof. Food is very good and served communally; staff are very friendly and helpful. It’s a 20-minute drive to the safari entrance, making it a pleasant and practical option.

Shergarh Camp

With traditional safari tents featuring solid, expansive bathrooms, this is an excellent upper midrange choice. Take the lodge to lodge bike trip through the park between their two locations.

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3. Agra

A different view of the Taj Mahal

Take the overnight train (around 12hr 30mins) from Jabalpur to Agra. Before being driven to your next stop, spend half a day here to take a different view of the Taj Mahal from your previous trips. Along from the Oberoi, the Taj Mahal Nature Walk provides cool, shady respite from the crowded centre of Agra.

Follow the paths alongside artistically painted tree trunks, through dips and peaks, where you’ll glimpse different views of the Taj Mahal. Take a seat at one of the benches or pagodas, although as a favourite spot for canoodling young romantics, some may be occupied.

Where to stay in Agra

To break the journey, add in a night at Agra. A number of less touristy options add more depth to the experience:

Ekaa Villas Hotel

This friendly boutique hotel, with 13 rooms, is in a quiet residential street. It overlooks a park where locals practise meditation and yoga early in the morning.

Take part in one of the experiences they offer, food- and art-related, with local artisans.

Coral Tree Homestay

Within walking distance of the entrance to the Taj Mahal, this homestay is simple but colourful, with fantastic hosts. All rooms are clean and well presented, and homecooked meals are offered onsite.

4. Beyond Agra – Etawah & Holipura

Continue from Agra by road for about 1.5 hours to your next stay in Chambal. The area resonates with historical stories and characters, from the trailblazing to the downright bizarre. Peaceful discovery is the focus here, with historic towns, traffic-free cycling and river safaris.

What to do outside Agra

Holipura’s abandoned mansions

Dating back 800 years, Holipura is the hometown of the Chaturvedi clan, self-proclaimed descendants of Alexander the Great. Several prominent figures constructed impressive ‘havelis’ – grand houses, in a mixture of architectural styles. Some are still occupied, many are abandoned. The past echoes silently through the peaceful streets as you wander around this town of faded glory.

The Great Hedge

Travel along the route of the former Great Hedge (see Roy Moxham’s eponymous book). This largely forgotten – and hugely labour intensive – project was an attempt by the British to construct a thorny physical customs barrier to stop salt smuggling. Hear the stories at Bhareh, a historic city on the confluence of the Chambal and Yamuna Rivers.

Etawah

This large town is has witnessed pivotal historic events, from the uprisings of 1857 to A.O. Hume’s foundation of the Congress Party for Indian Independence. Visit a number of heritage buildings – with the right connections you can get insider access. Seeing the town centre come to life is fascinating, with its bustle of tailors, food stalls and letter writers.

Bicycle Highway

Leading 207km from Etawah Safari Park to the gates of the Taj Mahal, this paved, dedicated cycle path is touted as Asia’s first bicycle highway. Cycle from your accommodation at Mela Kothi – which sits aside part of the highway – to Holipura for the heritage walk. Continue to the Bateshwar Temples and ghats – sandstone temples of the C8-11 and steps leading to the river. Witness the evening aarti Hindu ceremony of light, singing and conch blowing.

Safari

Pass through remote fields along the Chambal ravines, and skirt hamlets, on a jeep or walking safari to see buckbeat deer with and red-headed cranes. Take a boat along the wide Chambal River for a gentle 90 minute trip to observe crocodiles and their thin-snouted relative, the gharial; dolphins, deer and birdlife.

Where to stay outside Agra

Mela Kothi – Chambal Safaris

Stay at the beguiling Mela Kothi for a safari-style experience. A historic home which has been in the family for generations, the estate was revived in the early 2000s. It is now a popular spot for ornithologists and nature enthusiasts, offering safaris and fascinating village walks. Service here is very attentive, if not a little deferential; food is very good and the owners are delightful.

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4. Palampur

With its rolling fields of vivid green tea bushes, parks and waterfalls, and a snow-capped mountainous backdrop, Palampur is an idyllic setting for a highland getaway.

What to do in Palampur

Village visits

The town of Dharmshala can be easily visited from here, although be prepared for crowds and traffic as you navigate your way through ramshackle streets. An scenic way to arrive here is by cable car, from McLoed Ganj station.

Alternatively, for a more peaceful option, visit the lesser known, smaller and less touristy villages in the vicinity.

Tea plantation

Stay at The Lodge at Wah and visit their tea plantation. Encompassing the rolling hills, historic buildings and traditional machinery, the visit is rounded off with a superb tea tasting. Their teas truly are exquisite.

Hiking and biking

Several excellent half and full day hiking and biking trails lead from nearby. Pass through tea plantations with the snow-capped peaks of the Dhauladhar range before you.

Where to stay in Palampur

The Lodge at Wah

This homestay alone is worth the trip to Palampur. The family owners have created a beautiful upmarket property of six rooms, all built in the traditional style of mud walls, with antique finishings salvaged from a local courthouse. The family replanted acres of forest around the property, making it a peaceful retreat. The food is fresh and organic, served ‘safari style’ with other guests.

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5. Shimla

Shimla, in the Himalayan foothills, brims with colonial history and the scandals of high society. From 1864 to 1947 it was the summer capital of British India and the destination of the elite who sought refuge in its cooler climes. It provided the setting for hunts, garden parties, croquet and cricket; alongside political decision-making, social intrigue and romantic trysts.

The town has since expanded to a colourful, ramshackle collection of low-rise buildings perching on the hillside. Atop the busy city, the heritage area is an oasis of calm, being a rare example of a pedestrianised centre. Not even motorbikes can pass through. Stop for a drink and snack in one of the most historical coffee houses.

What to do in Shimla

Historical centre

This pedestrianised area provides a quiet retreat from the busy city. Stroll along the Mall and the shaded side streets, stopping in the iconic favourite spots of influential people past.

Toy Train

Squeeze through narrow gauges, round mountain curves, through tunnels and over bridges on the 40-minute train ride from Shimla to Taradevi. Enjoy the spectacular mountain panorama from the best carriage seats.

The Indian Coffee House

You don’t find cafés like this in many places. It oozes history through walls that should be able to talk. Staff dressed in elegant uniform serve remarkably low priced traditional snacks; local businessmen, lawyers and politicians sit around the perimeter observing and talking. It’s faded perfection.

Viceregal Lodge

Perched high above Shimla, the Viceregal Lodge is a masterpiece of history and architecture. Once home to the Viceroy of India – with Lord Mountbatten the last to reside here – it has welcomed dignitaries for generations. Built in the style of a Scottish castle, its arcades, towers and sweeping three-storey entrance were designed to impress. The gardens are immaculate. Step inside on a 30-minute guided tour and discover teakwood walls from Burma, antique furniture, evocative photographs and letters that capture moments from history.

Where to stay in Shimla

Oberoi Cecil, Shimla

Relive the elegance of the British Raj era in this hilltop, heritage hotel.