Sea almonds drying on Goidhoo, The Maldives 
Cultural, insightful, thought-provoking. Not words you’d usually associate with a holiday to The Maldives. Yet this is the real Maldives – an archipelago of over a thousand islands, 200 inhabited, with a history of trade and migration, colonisation and independence, traditions and conversions, stretching back over millennia.
Beyond the luxurious overwater villas, the local Muslim islands only started to welcome outsiders in 2010. Tourism is still fresh, and these day-to-day Maldivian islands remain relatively undiscovered. This Q&A uncovers the more authentic side to this paradisical archipelago, revealing the best of the unknown Maldives.
Staying on a local island allows you to experience real life in the Maldives.
No matter where you stay in the Maldives, the beauty of nature is the primary draw:
The Maldives is a balmy 25 to 30 degrees Celsius all year round.
December to April are the drier months, making for more predictability and better sunsets (and sunrises, for the early birds);
May to November sees frequent heavy showers and more wispy cloud hanging on the horizon. While it’s more wet and humid, this period is the best for spotting whale sharks and manta rays.
Malé, the capital, is the central hub for all travel in The Maldives, and host to the only international airport in the country.
There are plans to open an international airport in the northernmost atoll (on Hanimaadhoo), although this is most likely to serve Asian destinations only.
Most guest houses and all private resorts operate a transfer service from the airport in Male. This may be by speedboat – many popular destinations are located within an hour by speedboat from Male. Even calm-looking seas can be choppy – those with wobbly sea legs would do well to consider a sea plane option for longer distances.
The Maldives boasts the largest seaplane operation in the world, which can transport passengers directly to most islands.
Standard domestic flights run between Male and the airport on Hanimaadhoo, in the north of the archipelago.
Islands tend to be car free and are generally small enough to walk end to end in no time.
Despite being an archipelago of over 1000 islands, logistics are not set up for travelling from island to island.
Malé, the capital city, is the central hub for nearly all transport around The Maldives. Transits generally return to Malé before requiring a separate onward journey.
In a limited number of cases, public ferries operate between islands on the same atoll. There are few between different atolls.
Hiring a private speedboat or seaplane, however, will unlock any itinerary.
With talcum powder sands, endless hues of blue and a verdant fringe of jungle, Maldivian beaches are hard to beat. Here are our favourites:
Fulhadhoo white sand beach – this is the most perfect sand strip beach the Maldives can offer. Strolling from the jetty, the ocean laps the fine white sand while fruit bats flit between the frangipane branches of the jungle fringes. Reaching the tip of the island, the North and South beaches converge into an expanse of white, which curls into the distance before merging into shades of turquoise. Hermit crabs scuttle along the sand in their make-shift shell houses around stems of red coral, washed up from the reefs. As the tide recedes, sandy stepping stones are revealed, bridging the ocean gap between Fulhadhoo and its neighbouring island. Coral reefs border the beach’s flank, housing a myriad of colourful shoals.
Hanimaadhoo island beaches – both BareFoot Hotel’s ‘bikini beach’, and the neighbouring public beach that stretches to the harbour – are high on the list. From an attractive jetty, the white sands sweep to the verdant tip of the island, with a vibrant house reef flourishing just off shore.
There are a number of sumptuous options among private island resorts. On local islands, the level is generally more mid-range. However, a number of local island hotels are raising the bar, both on luxury and sustainability. Here are our top four:
‘Local island’ refers to the islands of the archipelago that are inhabited by local people. Hotels were only permitted on local islands in 2010, due to a reticence on the part of the government to allow in non-Muslim cultures. Now there are 1200 guest houses and hotels across 90 islands.
Hotels on local islands are, by law, owned or part owned by local Maldivians. Land rents are paid to local councils and the profits go back into the economy of the local island. Examples of the good these hotels do are visible, for example on Hanimaadhoo, the local school was constructed by the founder of The Barefoot hotel.
When visiting a local island, be prepared for a discrepancy between the popular picture postcard expectation and the aesthetic reality. While the nature is awe inspiringly beautiful, it is often not pristine. Local islands have a visible litter problem, and construction is ever-present. However, some of the most beautiful beaches in the Maldives are on local islands, and they are maintained by councils, guest houses and volunteers together.
Most local island hotels are budget to mid-range. A select handful are striving to hit the higher end in service, amenities and décor, with a lower price tag than the private resorts (see below for our recommendations). Overwater villas, however, are currently still the legal preserve of private island resorts.
As the Maldives is a Muslim country, attire on local islands must be modest, and Western swimwear is limited to certain designated ‘bikini beaches’. Food is halal and alcohol is banned, although some hotels circumvent this by serving drinks on a bar boat moored offshore.
Private islands are uninhabited – only the hotel operates there. All food and activities are provided by the hotel.
Maldivian law does not apply to private islands. Food does not have to be halal and Western swimwear is not restricted. Alcohol is served.
A handful of Maldivian families own the private islands, and the international hotel chains pay rent to them. In most cases, very little of the money generated by private island resorts stays goes back to benefit the Maldives more widely.
Private islands are generally kept pristine, with no litter or visible construction.
Resorts on private islands are normally large and can feature numerous restaurants of varying cuisines across the island. They are significantly pricier than stays in hotels on local islands, and the experience is more traditionally luxurious.
The experience on a private resort is generally detached from cultural context. Resorts are foreign owned, cuisine is international and few of the staff are Maldivian. However, some resorts do offer visits to local islands as an excursion.
Islands which receive visitors have designated ‘bikini beaches’. These are beaches where western swimwear can be worn. You’ll need to cover from shoulder to knee on the way to and from the beaches.
Local people enjoy beach time on public beaches. Here you’ll see groups of ladies fully dressed and wearing headscarves enter the calm water and wade, or swim with floats. Visitors are welcome on these beaches, as long as they are covered from shoulder to knee.
Beaches on local islands are uncommercial – there are no hawkers, stalls or juice bars. Do be prepared, even on some of the most beautiful beaches, for some litter to have been washed in from the sea. There are generally large wheelie bins near the entrance to a beach, where anything visitors feel moved to collect can be deposited.
Maintenance is managed by local guesthouses, councils and volunteers, and the frequency and quality varies by island. Some ‘bikini beaches’ on less frequented islands may feature an assortment of sun-worn seating options. However, you’ll never find yourself on a crowded beach, and you’ll often have the whole place to yourself.
Not all local island hotels have a beach to themselves. However, on islands less than 2km long, the beach is only ever a gently stroll away through a wide jungle lane.
Mix up your experiences. Consider staying on a couple of local islands: frame the tropical paradise in a cultural context and bring meaning through authentic connections. You’ll likely find yourself passing through Malé – it’s well worth making the detour to visit this colourful, engaging and buzzy capital with a guide who can tell you its stories. A luxurious private island resort stay will end your holiday in unparalleled style.
Get in touch with us at LiNGER to talk about how you can experience The Maldives differently. We’ll design an itinerary that feels entirely yours – thoughtful, seamless, and full of discoveries you won’t find in the more obvious places.
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