How touristy is Kyoto?

Kyoto is firmly on the Golden Route – the typical path that visitors take by the busload through Japan. It is clear why: the architecture, views from hillside temples and the quaint winding lanes epitomise the subtle elegance of Japan. However, the beauty of these older parts of Kyoto has been somewhat diminished by over-commercialisation and crowds of tourists. Despite this, many of the more popular attractions are still worth visiting, as long as you brace yourself for the crowds.

If you prefer to avoid the touristic parts altogether, there are nearby alternatives which provide a much more authentic experience. Find the temple that only the locals go to; see the geisha district that is unknown to outsiders and locate the undisturbed historic lanes of slatted wooden houses to wander through.

Gion:

• The alley of Pontocho, an utterly delightful narrow pedestrian passage lined with traditional eateries, is worth a wander. Cross through Gion over the river and find Ishibe Koji lane. Photographs here are prohibited, which has worked well to deter the crowds and preserve the peaceful spirit of this filmset-worthy winding lane, the most atmospheric of this district. However, reach the most visited roads of the geisha district, and the authenticity begins to wane.
• The otherwise picture-perfect Sannenzake and Ninenzake, with quaint wooden houses with slatted windows and roofs tiled like dragons backs, are now so packed with tourists that they are hard to walk through. International chains have muscled into the main thoroughfare. While many visitors dress up in hired kimonos, the real Geishas keep themselves well out of sight.

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Gion temples:

• The stream of visitors leads up to Kiyomizu-dera temple. This vermillion architectural treasure is worth a visit, not least for the stunning city views from its hilltop location, particularly at sunset. However, be prepared to beat your way through the crowds straining for that prized cityscape photograph.
• To feel less herded, try visiting the lesser known temples of this area. Kodaji Tenmangu is a good place to start – although centrally located in Gion, it has a very local feel, and provides a myriad of experiences in a small space, including its own bamboo forest.

Kamigyo:

• A largely unvisited part of Kyoto which maintains its quaint architecture and is home to practising and less elusive geishas, is Kamigyo. Although a little way North West of most attractions, this is worth the trip. Panelled wooden houses clad with white and red lanterns stand picturesquely on either side of the narrow streets and life continues here uninterrupted.

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Kitano-Tenmangu: 

• The Kitano-Tenmangu shrine complex in Kamigyo is well worth a couple of hours. Centuries-old treasures of shoguns are safely stowed in the temple, and hidden from sight for 51 weeks of the year. The lantern-lined avenues, spinning prayer wheels, lucky cow and the picturesque prayer stream, through which you can paddle to light a candle of wishes, make this an interactive and interesting visit, especially if you’re travelling with children.

Golden Palace:

• One very popular attraction which it is worth hitting the tourist trail for is the Golden Palace, or Kinkaku. While well-frequented, this destination has managed to avoid over-commercialisation. A pleasant trail runs through the pretty gardens of this beautiful building, its gold leaf façade reflected in the waters of the tranquil lake before it. Go with the flow, cast your wishing coins and enjoy the sight.

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Nishiki Market:

• Nishiki market, very popular with both tourists and locals alike, is most definitely worth a visit. This covered market stretches for miles. Vendors sell their wares on either side of the narrow alley, from freshly roasted chestnuts to skewered lobster. The range of foodstuffs, from the familiar to the frankly unrecognisable, cannot fail to impress.