In Japan, bathing is a deeply ingrained cultural experience. Onsens, natural hot springs rich in minerals and warmed by volcanic activity, offer a space for relaxation and quiet contemplation. You’ll find them everywhere, from standalone bathhouses to ryokans and hotels. Many hotels have their own onsen, either indoors or out, while high-end hotels often provide a small, private onsen as part of the room.
Whether tucked away in forested hillsides or perched beside a snowy riverbank, an onsen is an essential part of the Japanese experience… if you know how to use it correctly.
Onsens range in size from intimate stone pools to large communal baths. Many are in incredibly scenic locations – next to the sea, in a forested gorge, in the mountains – and are seamlessly integrated into their natural surroundings.
Onsens in hotels and ryokans often have an outside and inside pool; the inside pool may be a plunge pool, a bit like a natural jacuzzi, or look more like a standard swimming pool (but don’t be fooled – the rules of etiquette still apply!), while the outside pools are often merged into the natural environment, surrounded with small rocks and foliage.
Many are gender-segregated, though mixed-gender baths do exist. In the latter, changing rooms are separated but the pools themselves can be accessed by both. There will often be a part, screened from view, for female only bathers.
Onsens are open to the public – anyone can go. Onsens in hotels are often open to day visitors who are not guests.
Some onsens, and hotels, have private onsen pools that you can hire for an hour or so for yourself or for your family. These are a particularly useful option for people with tattoos that are hard to cover, or for children who are young and playful and may to disturb the peace.
Onsens are not swimming pools but places of relaxation where movements are slow and subdued and peace reigns. Bathers move slowly through the mineral-rich waters, stand peacefully or sit on the surrounding rocks.
Yes – most onsens do not have age restrictions for children. Boys aged seven or above normally need to use the male changing room and male baths, but boys under that age are allowed to change with their mothers in the female changing room. However, if children are likely to be playful, or want to swim, it would be better to book a private onsen. Onsens are generally around 106°F , 41°C (for comparison, that’s slightly hotter than a warm bath), However, some pools can be hotter – check the temperature before allowing children in and beware they don’t scald themselves at the source where the thermal waters flow in.
An onsen requires careful adherence to etiquette. Follow these 10 steps for a seamless onsen experience:
Leave your shoes at the entrance to the changing room, which will be separate for men and women. Remove all clothing and jewellery (the mineral-rich water can tarnish metals). Baskets are provided for your belongings – Japan is a society so safe and honest that most don’t twice about leaving valuables accessible. Occasionally lockers are available – you can take the key with you into the onsen. Onsens in public areas tend to allow bathers to enter with swimming costumes / trunks. Check before you go.
-Tattoos can be associated with criminality in Japan, and, while it is changing slowly, many onsens prohibit visible ink. If you have a tattoo, bring waterproof plasters to cover it, or purchase a tattoo seal in advance – an opaque sticker in light to medium skin tones, which stays on in the water.
Hygiene is paramount. Before stepping into the onsen, you must use the washing stations, which are usually equipped with stools, hand showers, and soap. Some traditional onsens may have wooden tubs of warm water instead. Rinse off completely so no suds enter the onsen waters.
Nakedness, even in non-gender segregated onsens, is not considered awkward. If you prefer, take a small towel into the bath to cover yourself. Some bathers rest it on their heads once they’re submerged, keeping it out of the water.
You may find in some more forested locations that a fly swatter is provided in the changing room. Take this with you to keep any bugs at bay.
Photography is not allowed in the onsen pools. Bathers leave all possessions, other than an occasional flannel, in the changing room.
Step in slowly, allowing your body to adjust to the heat. Most Japanese bathers sit or stand in the water rather than swimming or submerging their heads. Move quietly and avoid splashing.
Many onsens have both indoor and outdoor baths. Moving between them is encouraged, as each pool may have a different mineral composition or temperature.
Onsens are places of relaxation. If you’re travelling with children, consider reserving a private onsen if they are young or playful, as excessive noise may prompt other bathers to leave.
After bathing, allow your body to cool gradually. Many onsens have relaxation areas where you can sip tea or enjoy a quiet moment before getting dressed.
If you’re visiting in colder months, stepping into a steaming rotenburo (outdoor onsen) while surrounded by snow is a uniquely Japanese delight.
Images of the Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani Monkey Park near Nagano have made this a popular spot. These are Japanese macaques that, living in a snowy region, have discovered the benefits of warming up in the natural hot springs during the colder months (December to March), extending the Japanese onsen culture beyond humans.
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